Mr. Clumpy
2024-06-11, 06:28 PM
Hi,
For a long time I've been digitizing my tapes by running interconnects directly from my cassette deck to my Sony M-10. What are you using? I've been wondering if using a separate A/D converter and connecting it via USB to my computer might make for a better recording as the A/D converter in the M-10 is pretty old at this point.
Thanks.
co9ol
2024-06-12, 09:40 AM
Sony does make good stuff. If you wanted to get a separate A/D converter I've had good experiences with Focusrite.
78jazz
2024-06-12, 10:47 PM
I haven't done audio for quite some time, but I was using a standalone CD burner for it.
dorrcoq
2024-06-13, 10:43 AM
I went cassette deck > Focusrite Scarlett 4i4 > laptop
Dreamer Theat
2024-06-20, 07:44 AM
Tape deck direct to Tascam DA-3000 solid-state recorder. This stores input as WAV files, which I then copy to USB on the DA-3000 and copy/paste to Windoze PC for editing with Audacity.
Studio-grade kit, takes up no more room than a standard cassette deck in the music room.
Mr. Clumpy
2024-06-21, 10:26 AM
Tape deck direct to Tascam DA-3000 solid-state recorder.
This seems like the state of the art. At this point it's a little out of my budget's range, but definitely my end goal.
Dreamer Theat
2024-06-22, 07:28 AM
Unfortunately, Tascam aren't making the DA-3000 anymore, the top of the range machine at present seems to focus on all the wrong things, such as WiFi connectivity....
StarslayerJo
2024-11-30, 01:53 PM
Well, I generally try to go the simplest route, and it depends on the media itself
RECORDING SOURCES:
For Vinyl, I use the record player, and it goes to a preamp with RCA outputs, then an (RCA male to 1/8 conversion male) cable to one of my recorders
For tape, same thing, but no preamp. Straight out of a Nakamichi Dragon RCA output to the RCA cable and to my recorder.
from either of those source situations, I then transfer the files to my PC, create a folder using "Band - Date - Location (source) (length) (media)" and toss the media file and a text file with any pertininent info, so when I get around to editing, I have the info at hand.
EXACT AUDIO COPY (https://www.exactaudiocopy.de/)
CD/CDR, generally I rip using EAC ("Exact Audio Copy") a wonderful freeware program
It doesn't always happen with bootlegs, but occasionally a show might be in the Database, so if you hit "ALT+G", it will search its database for your CD/CDR. Sometimes you get lucky and it's there.
I use the previously listed FOLDER NAME setup, rip the wav as a single file, and save the cue file as well to the DIR created for the rip. This is done under "ACTION", then "Copy Image & Create Cue Sheet". You will then have an audio rip upon completion, can create a LOG of the rip, and proceed to editing. The audio file and any text info should be in the folder - you should verify before you forget about it. It will become an old habit soon enough.
EDITING:
Before you start editing the WAV file, I would recommend creating a MASTER FILE that DOES NOT GET TOUCHED. Make a copy of that, and use THAT COPY to edit. I simply name them MASTER.WAV and EDIT.WAV.
Before I go messing with the audio (much), I go to CD WAVE EDITOR (http://www.milosoftware.com/en/index.php?body=cdwave.php) which is not free, but extremely reasonable ($10, I believe) and load the cue file and audio file.
The main reason I do things in this order is that the cue file is based on the original wav file. I name tracks, verify cue points, then save the cue file.
There are times that the cue file (source WAV file) name gets changed, so if it doesn't find it, don't panic - just load up the wave file, then import the cue file.
You will probably want to increase volume, do fade in/out, remove dead start space and dead end space - I do that AFTER fixing cue points, otherwise I wind up having to retrack everything.
AUDIO EDITING:
I use AUDACITY (https://www.audacityteam.org/) for audio editing - it's fairly simple to use, but play with it til you are comfortable.
My initial audio edits are strictly amplifying the audio, and then saving the wav file - no cutting/fades or anything of that nature. Do that AFTER your tracks are separated.
after your audio levels are where you are happy with it, back to CD WAVE EDITOR, import the audio and cue files, then click on what looks like a floppy disk, and it will save the individual files.
Take the new first and last tracks back to Audacity, do your fade ins on the first track, and fade out on the last (for me, 2-5 seconds of screaming audience does the trick) and save the files.
CONVERSION
I use FRONTAH (https://www.softpedia.com/get/Multimedia/Audio/Other-AUDIO-Tools/Frontah.shtml) to convert audio formats. Other users may have other choices in mind. Unfortunately, the homepage seems to no longer exist, or has changed... but it is still available to download on the Softpedia site
If you have any questions, or need any clarification on this, just shoot me a PM, or maybe even respond here... I will answer it to the best of my ability.
OTHER HANDY STUFF
You can also use a nifty little program that DOES work on FLAC files to edit metatags (ID3 v1/2). My choice isn't free, but it is reasonable and versatile. it's called "Tag & Rename" (http://www.softpointer.com/tr.htm) and I believe is $29.95, but again, it's an essential tool for me.
That, and "Advanced Renamer" (https://www.advancedrenamer.com/) is also very handy, and free with the occasional popup asking you to donate - which I may just do soon... it's proven pretty invaluable for batch naming
Hope this helps!
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